Dargah Shah Pir Mohammad - Adobe of Peace in the Heart of the City.

“I serched for God and found only myself, I searched for myself and found only God”

Such is the idea of preachers and believers of Sufism. Do you know that Sufism has a history in India evolving for over 1,000 years now? The Sufi teachings of divine spirituality, cosmic harmony, love; humanity has left a prevailing impact on religious, cultural and social life in South Asia. Infact the introduction of the mystical form of Islam was done by Sufi saints. Besides preaching in major cities and centres of intellectual thought, Sufis reached out to poor and marginalized rural communities and preached in local dialects as well. One such Sufi Saint who is not much talked about in present but has touched the heart and soul of many is Shaikh Pir Muhammad. My very keen self took me to him recently.

The shrine of Pir Muhammad Sheikh is bathed in fragile tranquillity situated in the backdrop of Teele Wala Masjid, adjoining Pukka Pul(Stone Bridge). Lying on Bara Imambara Side, the Dargah is circled by a typical hustle-bustle of the city with the presence of constant traffic of auto rickshaws, buses, cars, flowing unevenly. Inside, however the very air is suffused with peace and privacy. Entering the Dargah, I saw the two holy structures. The square mausoleum of Shah Pir Mohammed is dominated by a large dome resting on a tall cylindrical drum. The dome and drum are nearly twice the height of the three arched square compartment at the base. Besides the grave of Shah Pir Mohammed inside the small hall, there are two graves, at the entrance towards south and on the platform outside. One of them, towards west, has extremely intricate and beautiful inlay work on its marble surface, even though the coloured stones studded therein have disappeared. The other Hall next to this contains three graves inside. It may be the final resting place for some of the holy man’s followers.

According to N. Hanif, Author of ‘Biographical Encyclopaedia of Sufis of South Asia’ - Shaikh Pir Muhammad was “A native of Jaunpur, he obtained formal education in his native town and in Delhi and Kannauj. In Lucknow he completed his religious and theological studies, later going on a Pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina, Shah ‘Abdu’llah Sayyah Chishti who came from the mountainous regions of Herat appeared in Lucknow and initiated Sheikh Pir Muhammad into Chishtiyya order. Later, he ordered him to settle permanently in Lucknow as a teacher of theology and mysticism. Choosing a place of high ground on the banks of Gomti, Sheikh Pir Muhammad built a hermitage not far from the Tomb of Shah Mina of Lucknow. A lover of Sama and Quwwals, were always on hand to perform. In 1669/70 he died’. However he left a rich heritage in form of books on both Fiqh (philosophy of Islamic Law) and Sufism. He did not marry and spent his whole life in the study of religious doctrines and scriptures and guided students who came to his abode, for the interpretation of theological matters. Sources also tell us that he considered diseases as both physical and spiritual, ‘the former were cured by a physician, but spiritual illness being caused by the dominance of one instinct over the other, could be set right only by a perfect Sufi guide. His work on Wahdat-al Wajud (unity of Existence/ Unity of being) is also very interesting as he talks about Mysticism in such a way that one could overlook both the laws of Sharia and Zariqa.

I chose a Thursday to visit this place. It was 1 o clock in the noon and the weather was perfect.   I specifically remember the very surprising welcome of cool breeze on entering the shrine. As in my habit I take in the feeling of the place before admiring the tangible beauty of it and so I did here. There was an absolute positivity in the atmosphere. Even though there was a huge commotion in the outside world in the middle of the day, this place managed to shelter its enclosed world in a state of seclusion. While the courtyard was semi crowded with worshippers, I noticed a few also sitting inside the main shrine around the tomb. Men, women, children all praying, bending down on the stairs, lighting the incense sticks and taking a round of the shrine. As I moved inside I was noticing it all, the beauty of our diverse nation and the beauty of faith which makes us unique.

It was pleasing to notice that people from all walks of life and faith were present under the same shade of neem tree and there was similar hope in the eyes of all. Women are allowed inside the Chambers where the Saint once lived, lived and now buried. These graves were covered with coloured clothes and flower petals. In Dargahs, the devotees sit quietly in front of the shrine - eyes closed. Sometimes a Khadim- the Dargah’s traditional caretaker is requested to liberate a man possessed by Djinns. The Khadim gently sways peacocks feather over the afflicted man’s head and order the unseen spirit to go away.

A Hindu family I happened to talk to is among the crowd present at this hour, sitting down infront of me, they offered me home cooked Sooji Halwa. They told me how strong their belief was for Pir Baba. A brief and astonishing answer to my curiosity was shut when they insisted me to take their phone number and call them exactly a year after and check if their prayers were answered. They were so sure of it!

I researched and found historians like Abdul Halim Sharar, the famous author of ‘Guzishta Lakhnau’ and the translators of his book to English, E.S.Harcourt and Fakhir Hussain in their notes have erroneously mentioned Shah Pir Mohammed. Nabi Hadi,Author of ‘Dictionary of Indo-Persian Literature also mentions Pir Muhammad Lakhnawi belonged to the period of Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb and as a Sufi he lived the life of exemplary poverty, and sparing one time’s food for himself, gave away to others whatever he received daily as Futuh (offerings), from the devotees.

Directly opposite to this mausoleum is a small mound, which is said to have been formed when the eastern gateway of the Bara Imambara of Asaf-ud-Daulah (which was parallel to and corresponded with the Rumi Darwaza on the west) was bombarded and demolished by the British in July 1857. The mound was also used in 1857-58 for setting up scaffolds to hang the rebels (freedom fighters) who had revolted against the unlawfully imposed British rule. Name of at least five freedom fighters and heroes hanged are available in historical accounts as Maulvi Rasool Bakhsh, Hafiz Abdul Samad, Mir Abbas, Mir Qasim Ali Kamadan and Mammu Khan.

Coming out I am taking a very different feeling with me. There is a huge importance of this place in history and now in my heart as well. While writing this and remembering the shrine I can still smell the air with a beautiful composition of essence of Rose, Incense sticks and huge amount of Faith.

Developing a Culture Hub - Awadh Shilp Gram inaugurated in Lucknow

The Shilp Gram is an open air craft bazaar cum food plaza situated in campus of Awadh Vikas Yojna on Sultanpur road. Coming from Gomti Nagar side, you will see it on the left side just parallel to the Shaheed Path. UP Chief Minister Akhilesh Yadav inaugurated the 'Avadh Shilp Gram' on Saturday and announced several welfare measures for the artisans. The 20-acre sprawling campus of the Shilp gram houses a huge complex of shops where artisans from across the state can showcase their products. Built in red stone, the 'haat' saw thousands of people flocking there on its inaugural day. The haat will comprise 169 craft shops, food courts, exhibition hall, banquet hall and amphitheatre as well. The project has been developed by the state government for providing financial and marketing assistance to the artisans of various handicrafts and medium, small and micro entrepreneurs.

The idea is to display the crafts and promote the Craftsmen from all states of India to make a wide variety of handicrafts are available at one place. There is a lot of similarity here with much famous Dilli Haat, New Delhi. However this one in our Lucknow is much huger in the scale and in area. In my eyes this place can turn out to be much more than a handicraft selling place because there is a lot that can be done and enjoyed here. The place is made keeping in mind the contemporary visitors of our city. From Kashmiri Shawls to Phulkari Dupatta, to anything and everything, one can go on a shopping spree here instead of going from state to state. As I visited the place just one day after the inauguration I could spot only limited stalls and shops open but most of the shops are already allotted and will open very soon.   There are so many reasons to Visit Shilp Gram.

It is a Shopper Paradise – from home decor, to clothing and jewellery, one can find anything and everything at one place. This place is soon going to attract people from city and visitors from outside Lucknow too. Surely our wait for yearly Lucknow Mohotsava has ended with this being available to us all year round. If you love to shop and explore do not miss this place. It also makes an excellent joint for buying gifts for friends and family.

Another reason that could make it popular among the citizens is the chosen site of the Shilp Gram, which is away from city’s hustel-bustle which allows you to enjoy and breathe in fresh air, free of dust and pollution which dominates inside the city and the crowded markets. There are enough parking spaces which make it even better. Apart from saving time finding a parking spot it is also provides a relaxed visit as there is not much of a chaos in this part of the city.  Morever there is alot of open space for your kid to move here and there inside the complex too.

Modern day Lucknow contains alot of beautiful buildings but we have to admit that Shilp Gram complex is very unique and impressive in its own way.  The infrastructure is very appealing, giving Indianised look with modern techniques. The complex is divided into various sections to make it feasible. There is a separate food court, an amphitheatre for performances in future, two very well set up Children’s playing area and clean washrooms. The stalls and directions are very well marked too. There are air-conditioned and non-AC shops in Awadh Shilp Gram, numbering 209 along with provision of separate men and women dormitories for lodging of visiting artisans.

The Shilp Gram serves right for people of all age and section of society. There is something for everybody. From food stalls to shopping stalls one can come and enjoy here with family and friends. People who are looking to take a break from the giant malls and polluted markets of Lucknow, you may get that in Shilp Gram.

Apart from from art and craft, Shilp Mela has a huge makeshift food court where you can find a lot of variety in food. There will be stalls from different states and various cuisines. Who would not want to indulge in some mouth watering, delicious food after much shopping?

Another USP of Shilp Gram is its Children Play Area. Congratulations all you ladies, you can let loose and shop without the worry of eyeing on your kids because there is a lot for kids to enjoy in the place too. The open spaces and, play spaces for kids are a very good idea and have been brought up in Lucknow for the first time.

The place is not ticketed for now, not sure about the coming days though. But till then one can go in, for free.

India’s amazing and varied handicrafts will be beautifully displayed here under one roof. This will not only increase people’s awareness on our dying art and tradition but also help the indigenous artisans to come up. Preservation of these arts is must and this is the foremost way to it. We will be lucky to see many Indian artists who are superb at what they do but have not got the right stage to showcase what they got. Luckily with such platforms they are coming up.  E.g. embroidery, paintings, pottery and textiles. There will be a variety of affordable souvenir shopping in a pleasant, open-air, un-crowded place, promoting the handicraft industry along with opening up of new avenues of jobs for youth.

The Shilp gram is being developed as a Cultural Hub. There are plans to organise appropriate ambience for the festivals. This will be a single point where foreign and domestic tourists will be brought and there will be a show case of culture and tradition in form of art and craft. Music, Dance, Sports, and theatre is also taken into consideration.

A good initiative from the state government to promote the handicrafts of the country, this would provide a unique shopping experience to the visitors if the promises are truly kept. If developed properly, it can surely turn out to be one of the major attractions of the city.

Now Reading

Here's a wish in my heart, to take a journey back in the days of Nawabs, when Lucknow was Oudh. The time of Dastan Goi, the time when social etiquettes became second nature, the Lucknow which Sharar talks about in this book. Wish I could use much humorous and satirical phrase 'Pahle-aap', after you, seriously and all other elaborate mannerism which are no longer prevalent in our city. The process of evolution has transformed the physical, social, and cultural landscape of Luc...know beyond recognition. The parks in Aminabad have been converted into shopping centres. Qaiserbagh, with its desolate gardens, neglected and near derelict architecture looks more like a ghost town, rather than the former fairyland enclosure.
However this book is slowly taking me to the Awadh as it was... Ah these 700 pages are a tressure! #dontwakemeup #myprecious #Lucknow #Awadh #nawab

Thought on this Independence Day

I often find myself spotting smiles more than the required details whenever I visit a Monument, such is the story of this picture. Found these young boys at Humayun's Tomb complex and we instantly clicked. It is always an interesting fact for me to notice different kind of people who visit any monument. Each is a storyteller, each carrying story of their lives and their past. Even though we are very much used to witnessing it, let us appreciate the beauty of the diversity around us. 

On this Note Happy Independence Day to all, i am back home and its a Rainy-Day here in Lucknow but my mother informed me that kids in her school seem no less enthusiastic. they surely know how to enjoy the Independence. 

Those Hot-Wheels of Gondal

Classic car lovers are often spotted in Gondal City State, in Saurashtra Gujrat. World famous for its Collection, Gondal is ruled by a family of Car enthusiasts whose royal passion resulted in a fine collection of automobiles, which are a part of a Museum in the Palace premises now. You reach Gondal by Driving south of Rajkot, which still looks like a place of yesteryears. I was told, such was the Royal passion, that Gondal had the best planned and well designed road system in pre-Independent Gujrat (imagine!?) The Royal Garage which has an extensive collection of vintage Automobiles and Classic Cars is in the Orchard palace. This Orchard Palace which is also known as 'The Huzoor Palace' is surrounded by huge gardens and fruit orchards. Also the current residence of the Royal family, even though a wing of this Palace has been converted into a seven-room Heritage Hotel decorated with 1930-40s art deco-furniture, antiques and handicrafts.

It is more than a treasure trove of Vintage automotives, which gives an aural-visual and educative experience that every vehicle enthusiast and historian would want to have. The collection replicates the bygone era, complete with the classic favourites. From Bentleys, Aston Martins and Rolls-Royces to the Chevrolet Camaro, the collection showcases a diverse collection of Glistening steel Beauties that could make even the most hard-nosed cynic quiver with excitement. I remember my brother going crazy over these Hot-wheels(as I am call them) like old Daimlers, Cadillac and Studebakers. The guide informed us that the Gondal family still takes interest in new models of cars and car racing.

The ideas of this collection also appear to raise awareness about the old-style vehicles. The collection also includes a pre-1910 New Engine that belonged to Maharaja Bhagwat Sinhji which is a real beauty with its superbly crafted gas-operated lamp, curved glass windscreen and woodwork interiors of the coach.
and just by the way, famous movies like Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam, R.. Rajkumar and recent Prem Ratan Dhan Payo was shot in Gondal palaces ;)

All you Vintage Car lover and History enthusiast  like me, go check out Gondal.  Also, there is more to Gondal than just the Vintage car Museum so do not give this small town of Royality a miss.

That half an hour into the enchanted Forest (Sanjay Vans)

Yesterday I took a tour into a city forest. Sanjay Vans, a sprawling forest lying just next to Qutub institutional Area, is such a visual feast away from the commotion of traffic. I had heard so much about this thickly wooded area but couldn't make myself go inside and check it out for real. Maybe because of the negative rumours of it being one of the most haunted places in Delhi. However Yesterday, I actually convinced myself to go inside. To my surprise I got the most positive vibes when I went in. I took a moment to breathe in the freshest air and the Smell of Geeli-mitti (it was actually a moment for me). It is one of Delhi's largest green spaces, with vermillion and fuchsia boughs of bougainvillea, trees spreading, curving and twisting in yogic poses. There were different species of vibrantly hued butterflies, a peacock which disappeared into the foliage upon seeing me and sang all the time we were there, and leaves and flowers falling all the time. It was very pleasant to be out of the metropolis and its mundanity and chaos to be inside this serene natural wonderland, soaked in a very light rain, listening to the birds chatter with each other from their respective tree points. As I sat there now, recalling what I had read about the southern Ridge and its history which stretches back to Pre Sultanate Period, it started to drizzle. And as it was getting darker, I came out, determined to come back again to get immersed in the atmosphere.

Chai ki Chuski

My best friend's mother, Huma Aunty is very fond of chai just like all of us, and she takes it to a very next level by having such a beautiful collection of Chai ke pyaale and teapots. It makes me think of having my own collection of delicate tea cups and variety of Chai-patti too (someday definitely). Last week when we visited the cottage emporium in Janpath, I remember her picking some very interesting chai pattis like Kawa and Orange pekoe Darjeeling tea.

Tea is comfort for me, a lot of you will agree with me here.  We Indian are the most fascinating when it comes to Chai, everyone has their own taste of tea and the way they like their tea differs from person to person. Moreover, how is it that every Indian house has an evening Chai session and each family, each house has its own Chai recipe!? The evening chai ritual for me is something, I only enjoy at home. I should tell you that during winters and ofcourse when I am writing or studying, a cup of Chai is like an extension of my hand. But right now I am more into Coffee. actually there are phases, somedays i want coffee and somedays I am only drinking tea.

For me the most important thing is how the Chai is made. I share the exact same taste for Chai as my mother and my chachi. We like it simple. Starting with boiling the water with chai-patti and lot of adrak and then a dash of milk, with right amount of sugar (a super sweet cup of tea is a total no-no)
At home it is made so often that we end up drinking three or four cups a day. But you know what my favourite part is? (apart from drinking it, and definitely not making it) I love the smell of Chai and Coffee. Such a warm and uplifting smell. The moment I bring the cup close to my lip and smell the chai before taking first sip, (yes I judge chai with its smell) that is my favourite moment. The perfect concoction of tea reminds me of rain and pakoras and the roadside dhabas and the chai break we took during classes and the family funtions at home with cups of sweet chai being passed around. Basically it reminds me of home. Funny thing is however hot it gets still people do not give upon their Garam Chai ki Chuski. Right?

A week ago, we were admiring the dressed up interiors of Qutub Minar complex, the wonderful Jaali work (Lattice work) flooding the space with its beauty. Believe it or not you can never have enough of Qutub Minar in one visit or two. Each time I visit this place I observe something new which I couldn't  from the last visit. 

These two Besties in the Hills

This picture really makes me happy. Such a perfect frame. There are hills, there is cool breeze (that’s the need of the hour in Delhi) and there are tiny pebbles which I adore, its positive, its green and most importantly its cute (cuteness and positivity rules in my world just by the way). Moreover, these two fellas got me thinking about a lot of things. They look like companions waiting for better things ahead. May be they are Best Friends looking for the next meal they can get (why? because food is awesome). They definitely look like they are made for each other.

Too we are made to believe that our soul-mate is someone that we fall head over heels in love with. We believe that a soulmate is someone who will be by our side always, the one that we will spend our lives with.

Well, it is not entirely false.

Except, lately I have started believing that maybe our soulmates are not the ones we get romantically involved with? Sometimes you just find one heart that you connect with. Believe me, the best relationships are the ones who you do not seek for and they are already there. You can find your soulmate in your parents (like I do), your siblings, and your friends. Moreover, in my belief your passion can become your companion in life too. And you can come across several soulmates in your life. Your soul does not limit you to aligning with others like you, others who feel like home to you. The people who you don’t have to put in much effort with but just naturally click; those are the relationships you know will last a lifetime no matter how far life takes you apart.

Your best friends easily make the best soulmates because even though you most likely will lead different lives, but in the end you will always be together (and forever) I am so glad I have found my magical relationships, my very own Soulmates. Have you?

Visit to Dargah of Khwaja Bakhtiyar Kaki

I  consider myself very lucky to be living in such a diverse country. I love how we have a culture which no other place in the world has, maybe that's why it is said that you can take yourself out of India, but cannot take India out of you. Every single point of every single day there is so much happening around here. Imagine this has been happening since millions years!! Imagine this place, this land, this air we breathe in, the sky and the seasons have been here in the similar manner for centuries. We are the oldest civilization in the world. Humans have been coming and settling here one after another. In my eyes, this place is blessed. This place is blessed with the most diversified history, the most fascinating one infact.
From time to time, I come across people who are well versed in history who make me believe that there is more to philosophy of life, than physical existence of one's being. There are some characters in past, as I imagine must have had a different kind of personality or aura that they are not only still remembered and respected but are also relevant even today. I like to imagine them in their past. I believe in creating an image of these persons by reading more about them and making my imaginations work.
These days I am interning at National Monument's Authority. It is of course a very enriching experience to see how the real things work. I meet very interesting people in this process too. Recently, one of the staff archaeologist took us for a site visit to Qutub-Complex and around for inspection of Regulated and Prohibited zones around the monuments. It was a sunny day with high Humidity but the enthusiasm in me never dies down.
After the inspection we visited Dargarh-Qutub-Sahib.

Khwaja Qutbu'd-Din Bakhtiyar Kaki, popularly known as Qutb-Sahib, and surnamed Kaki because during his meditation he was fed on small cakes known as ‘Kaks’. He was born at Ush in Persia. He came to India with the earliest Muslim conquerors after journeying through Khurana and Baghdad and became a disciple, and later a spiritual successor, of Khwaja Mu'inu'd-Din Chishti of Ajmer. He lived during the reign of Iltutmish.

Entering the Dargah, while passing through I noticed several halls for various purposes, such a Naubat khana (drum house), Majlis Khana (assembly hall), Tosh khana (robe chamber).
I happen to strike a conversation with this lady who was here to pray for his daughter. She explained me how some women like her tie glass bangles on the jali window while making a wish, then she took me inside to show bibi Sahib's (wife of sufi saint) dargah ghar where women go inside and pray (ibadat)

Do you get this feeling? When you understand and really feel the positivity in a space? The faces of devotees, the prayers you hear, the fragrance of roses and incense sticks, and curious looks you get, all accumulate to make your visit interesting.
The main shrine in the Dargah is embellished by different Rulers of Delhi, the most pleasing part being the western wall containing floral multi-colored tiles, said to have been fixed by Aurangzeb.
Another unique fact that I learnt about the place was that different rulers who kept saint in high esteem also lie buried in various enclosers around his grave. Among those buried here are Bahadur Shah 1, Shah Alam 2, Akbar 2 and members of their families. Bahadur Shah Zafar prepared a grave here for his burial, but it remained unutilized, as he was deported to Rangoon where he died and was buried.

There are some experiences that stay with you forever. These experiences become yours and yours alone and you carry them with you wherever you go... This was one of those experiences.

Getting Lost in Alleys of Old Amdavad- A Story Through Pictures