Wanderlust

Wanderlust
I like to linger, a little longer, a little longer here with you

31 December, 2016

A Brief History of Coinage, With special reference to Awadhi Coins.


The past, like the present, is complex and can be looked at from many perspectives. There can never be a single, final, perfect history. There can never be a complete or exact picture of what happened in the past; the task of the historian is to bring us as close as possible to such a picture. Historical analysis involves carefully examining the available sources of information, searching for fresh evidence, and devising creative, innovative ways of interpreting historical data. Hence all historical interpretations are ultimately based on evidence derived from the sources of history, conventionally divided into two categories – literary and archaeological. From historian’s point of view, literary sources include all texts- long and short, written or oral; archaeological sources include all tangible, material remains. These material remains can be used to reconstruct history and can be seen as windows to the past. Study of Coinage (called Numismatics) is one such section which holds a lot of significance as a source of understanding our history.



Hoard of Coins
In modern times, money functions as a medium of exchange, a store of value, a unit of accounts, and a medium of deferred payment. In the most general sense, money is any item that is accepted by a community for the exchange of goods or services or for the discharge of debt. Currency and coinage are more specific terms. Currency is a medium of exchange backed by an issuing authority, one that can be used to immediately discharge any kind of financial obligation. Coinage is metal currency. It has definite size, shape, and weight standard, and bears the stamp of any issuing authority. In the world context, the earliest coins in Lydia in West Asia in c 700 BCE and were made of alloy of gold and silver.




                               Earliest coins found from Lydia, west Asia
In Indian context, Stone Age people had neither currency nor coinage and conducted via barter. Chalcolithic cultures too conducted trade without the use of coins. Harappans for instance, had a very extensive trade network based on barter.  There are a lot of references in literary sources which give us an idea of existence of some kind of exchange system prevalent in prehistoric times. Later Vedic texts and Buddhist texts and Ashtadhayayi mentions use terms such as Niksha, Suvarna, Shtamana, Pada, Kahapana, trinshatika, which may have been metal pieces of definite weight (co-existed with emergence of state, urbanisation and expanding trade). Interestingly, the basic unit of Indian coin weight systems was a red-and-black seed of Gunja berry known as the Raktika, ratti, or rati (still used by goldsmiths).
                                                                        Ratti Seeds

Then came the Punch-Marked coins (the oldest coins found in Indian subcontinent) made of copper, silver of various sizes and shapes. The symbols and signs like mountain, tress, animals, sun-moon, geometric designs, wheel etc. were hammered or punched on it. These symbols in all probability hold religious and symbolic importance. Later with emergence of Indo-Greek rulers coins were very well executed, usually round and mostly in silver bearing the name and portrait of issiuing ruler on obverse. Coins of Menander and Strato 1 (Indo-Greek rulers) show them aging from teenager to old men, indicating their long reigns. The reverse of these coins generally had religious symbols. Kushanas also issued many gold coins, with deities belonging to the Brahmanical, Buddhist, Greek, Roman,and other Pantheon on the reverse. Gupta Coins were issued in Gold in the largest number in history so probably that is the reason it is known as the Golden Era.



Above are some Punch Marked Coins

In medieval times, there was a continuation of alloy metal coins along with ‘Cowries’ (shells) as a medium of exchange. In many parts of early medieval India, cowries continued to be used as money along with coins. At Bhaundri village in Lucknow , 54 Pratihara coins were found along with 9834 cowries. Cowries were probably used by people either for small-scale transactions or where coins of small denominational value were in short supply. The market value of cowries fluctuated, depending on demand and supply.
                                                                             Cowrie Shells

In the same reference Coinage of Lucknow or rather Awadh has been playing a very important part in comprehending bygone era of the region. Awadh consisted of much of the modern state of Uttar Pradesh with the initial capital at Faizabad and later moved to Lucknow which also stationed British Resident.  With the death of Aurangzeb in 1707, the Mughal Empire began to fragment as there was a continual struggle for power at the centre. And because there was lack of control Sadat Khan who was appointed as the Mughal Governor of the province in 1720, he somewhat started behaving independent and taking advantage of the situation. He opened a mint in Benaras, calling it ‘Muhammadabad Banaras’, and issued new coins for Awadh in the name of Mughal Emperor. These coins in Silver  show cased a stylised fish, the dynastic symbol of Nawabs of Awadh (which is also seen in the Awadh Flag.





                                                                Coin of Shah Alam 2, Banaras

In 1763, the Nawab of Bengal Mir Qasim tried to break free from British interference and endless Avarice. He sought refuge in Awadh and a combined force of Mir Qasim, Shuja-ud-Daula (Nawab of Awadh) and Mughal Emperor Shah Alam 2 marched east to recover Bengal. However, this combined force was defeated in Battle of Buxar in 1764. In the aftermath, Awadh lost its Eastern part which included Banaras and was forced to pay heavy annual tribute to the East India Company. So then, the Mint moved to Lucknow, from where coins in the name of Mughal Emperor continued to be struck. There was clearly a very loose control from the centre and no sense of political unity (with the existence of various exchange system in parts of India). However there was always a strong hold of existence of trade in the society. There was a lot import as well as export from Awadh and according to historians the medium of exchange were mainly coins known with different terms such as  Rupia, Paisa, falus, mohur, ashrafi, nazarana rupee. Awadhi coins experimented with designs as there are many signs which feature in it like star, fish, flag and other signs. Most of the coins can be studied through the inscribed details making it interesting as a source of epigraphy. The inscribed details include name, designation i.e. king/ruler, date/year, place of mint, and sometimes other details. The twin fish gained prominence when court artist Robert Home designed the royal insignia for Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haider’s coronation as the first king of Awadh and since then the two fishes were used as one of the chief elements seen in buildings, gates, coins etc.
                                                                         Fish Motif on coins
                             
                                                             Coin of Nasir-ud-din Haider
A while later, in 1819 Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haidar finally started to strike coins in his own name. As the sources say that the idea was proposed by the Governor-General, Lord Hastings, and he also encouraged Ghazi-ud-Din Haider to accept the title of King. This clearly indicates how far Mughal decline has proceeded. However historians claim that there were definitely a little hesitation in taking this drastic step but in the eyes of some it was a much needed and a great step. These coins featured - crown flanked by rampart lions holding flag and two upright fish below.

There was also an introduction of ‘Coat of Arms type’ of coins. These coins were one of its kinds. Apart from Awadh Coat of Arms, also had parasol above crown, flanked by mermaid holding flag, and crossed swords below. Struck in the name of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, independent of Mughal rule, but much inspired from European structure as seen in Coat of Arms design. It was just not the influence of the Britishers, it was also alot of pressure which was there ever since the Battle of Buxar. The East India Company had essential control over Awadh and the amount of control they had, steadily increased over the years.
                                                           Coin of Wajid Ali Shah

With no clear powerful Leadership presence the end was near and hence in 1856 the East India Company annexed the state under the Doctrine of Lapse. Wajid Ali Shah, the then Nawab was imprisoned, and then exiled by the company to Calcutta. In the Subsequent Revolt of 1857, the first war of independence (also known as Sepoy Mutiny), Lucknow was the centre of events. The King makers where now also seen as the king breakers. The Nawabs were added to that growing list of those who had come to fear the outcome of British hegemony. With the annexation of Awadh, Britishers had all the authority over coinage system as well as the over the state treasury.

Eventually the coinage changed and evolved and the old coins replaced with the new once, as it always does. This led to shift political, social as well as economic system of India.
In 1877, Awadh along with Agra was placed under one administrator, it was made part of the United Province in 1902.

Numismatics as a study and Coins carry a lot of historical information. They are linked with monetary history, monetary value attached to coins, the economic system of a reign, information about trade and exchange. Not only this coinage also gives us information regarding dates, cross checking written sources, and setting up chronology of an empire. Coinage also provides information about the prevalent script, language, culture, the signage used. The material used and designs also show the technological advancement and metallurgy. It also covers political and religious history to some extent. Hence we can say that Coinage has played an important role in reconstructing history.


13 October, 2016

Dargah Shah Pir Mohammad - Adobe of Peace in the Heart of the City.


“I serched for God and found only myself, I searched for myself and found only God”
Such is the idea of preachers and believers of Sufism. Do you know that Sufism has a history in India evolving for over 1,000 years now? The Sufi teachings of divine spirituality, cosmic harmony, love; humanity has left a prevailing impact on religious, cultural and social life in South Asia. Infact the introduction of the mystical form of Islam was done by Sufi saints. Besides preaching in major cities and centres of intellectual thought, Sufis reached out to poor and marginalized rural communities and preached in local dialects as well. One such Sufi Saint who is not much talked about in present but has touched the heart and soul of many is Shaikh Pir Muhammad. My very keen self took me to him recently.
The shrine of Pir Muhammad Sheikh is bathed in fragile tranquillity situated in the backdrop of Teele Wala Masjid, adjoining Pukka Pul(Stone Bridge). Lying on Bara Imambara Side, the Dargah is circled by a typical hustle-bustle of the city with the presence of constant traffic of auto rickshaws, buses, cars, flowing unevenly. Inside, however the very air is suffused with peace and privacy. Entering the Dargah, I saw the two holy structures. The square mausoleum of Shah Pir Mohammed is dominated by a large dome resting on a tall cylindrical drum. The dome and drum are nearly twice the height of the three arched square compartment at the base. Besides the grave of Shah Pir Mohammed inside the small hall, there are two graves, at the entrance towards south and on the platform outside. One of them, towards west, has extremely intricate and beautiful inlay work on its marble surface, even though the coloured stones studded therein have disappeared. The other Hall next to this contains three graves inside. It may be the final resting place for some of the holy man’s followers.




According to N. Hanif, Author of ‘Biographical Encyclopaedia of Sufis of South Asia’ - Shaikh Pir Muhammad was “A native of Jaunpur, he obtained formal education in his native town and in Delhi and Kannauj. In Lucknow he completed his religious and theological studies, later going on a Pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina, Shah ‘Abdu’llah Sayyah Chishti who came from the mountainous regions of Herat appeared in Lucknow and initiated Sheikh Pir Muhammad into Chishtiyya order. Later, he ordered him to settle permanently in Lucknow as a teacher of theology and mysticism. Choosing a place of high ground on the banks of Gomti, Sheikh Pir Muhammad built a hermitage not far from the Tomb of Shah Mina of Lucknow. A lover of Sama and Quwwals, were always on hand to perform. In 1669/70 he died’. However he left a rich heritage in form of books on both Fiqh (philosophy of Islamic Law) and Sufism. He did not marry and spent his whole life in the study of religious doctrines and scriptures and guided students who came to his abode, for the interpretation of theological matters. Sources also tell us that he considered diseases as both physical and spiritual, ‘the former were cured by a physician, but spiritual illness being caused by the dominance of one instinct over the other, could be set right only by a perfect Sufi guide. His work on Wahdat-al Wajud (unity of Existence/ Unity of being) is also very interesting as he talks about Mysticism in such a way that one could overlook both the laws of Sharia and Zariqa.


I chose a Thursday to visit this place. It was 1 o clock in the noon and the weather was perfect.   I specifically remember the very surprising welcome of cool breeze on entering the shrine. As in my habit I take in the feeling of the place before admiring the tangible beauty of it and so I did here. There was an absolute positivity in the atmosphere. Even though there was a huge commotion in the outside world in the middle of the day, this place managed to shelter its enclosed world in a state of seclusion. While the courtyard was semi crowded with worshippers, I noticed a few also sitting inside the main shrine around the tomb. Men, women, children all praying, bending down on the stairs, lighting the incense sticks and taking a round of the shrine. As I moved inside I was noticing it all, the beauty of our diverse nation and the beauty of faith which makes us unique.



It was pleasing to notice that people from all walks of life and faith were present under the same shade of neem tree and there was similar hope in the eyes of all. Women are allowed inside the Chambers where the Saint once lived, lived and now buried. These graves were covered with coloured clothes and flower petals. In Dargahs, the devotees sit quietly in front of the shrine - eyes closed. Sometimes a Khadim- the Dargah’s traditional caretaker is requested to liberate a man possessed by Djinns. The Khadim gently sways peacocks feather over the afflicted man’s head and order the unseen spirit to go away.

A Hindu family I happened to talk to is among the crowd present at this hour, sitting down infront of me, they offered me home cooked Sooji Halwa. They told me how strong their belief was for Pir Baba. A brief and astonishing answer to my curiosity was shut when they insisted me to take their phone number and call them exactly a year after and check if their prayers were answered. They were so sure of it!

I researched and found historians like Abdul Halim Sharar, the famous author of ‘Guzishta Lakhnau’ and the translators of his book to English, E.S.Harcourt and Fakhir Hussain in their notes have erroneously mentioned Shah Pir Mohammed. Nabi Hadi,Author of ‘Dictionary of Indo-Persian Literature also mentions Pir Muhammad Lakhnawi belonged to the period of Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb and as a Sufi he lived the life of exemplary poverty, and sparing one time’s food for himself, gave away to others whatever he received daily as Futuh (offerings), from the devotees.


Directly opposite to this mausoleum is a small mound, which is said to have been formed when the eastern gateway of the Bara Imambara of Asaf-ud-Daulah (which was parallel to and corresponded with the Rumi Darwaza on the west) was bombarded and demolished by the British in July 1857. The mound was also used in 1857-58 for setting up scaffolds to hang the rebels (freedom fighters) who had revolted against the unlawfully imposed British rule. Name of at least five freedom fighters and heroes hanged are available in historical accounts as Maulvi Rasool Bakhsh, Hafiz Abdul Samad, Mir Abbas, Mir Qasim Ali Kamadan and Mammu Khan.

Coming out I am taking a very different feeling with me. There is a huge importance of this place in history and now in my heart as well. While writing this and remembering the shrine I can still smell the air with a beautiful composition of essence of Rose, Incense sticks and huge amount of Faith.

Developing a Culture Hub - Awadh Shilp Gram inaugurated in Lucknow

The Shilp Gram is an open air craft bazaar cum food plaza situated in campus of Awadh Vikas Yojna on Sultanpur road. Coming from Gomti Nagar side, you will see it on the left side just parallel to the Shaheed Path. UP Chief Minister Akhilesh Yadav inaugurated the 'Avadh Shilp Gram' on Saturday and announced several welfare measures for the artisans. The 20-acre sprawling campus of the Shilp gram houses a huge complex of shops where artisans from across the state can showcase their products. Built in red stone, the 'haat' saw thousands of people flocking there on its inaugural day. The haat will comprise 169 craft shops, food courts, exhibition hall, banquet hall and amphitheatre as well. The project has been developed by the state government for providing financial and marketing assistance to the artisans of various handicrafts and medium, small and micro entrepreneurs.

The idea is to display the crafts and promote the Craftsmen from all states of India to make a wide variety of handicrafts are available at one place. There is a lot of similarity here with much famous Dilli Haat, New Delhi. However this one in our Lucknow is much huger in the scale and in area. In my eyes this place can turn out to be much more than a handicraft selling place because there is a lot that can be done and enjoyed here. The place is made keeping in mind the contemporary visitors of our city. From Kashmiri Shawls to Phulkari Dupatta, to anything and everything, one can go on a shopping spree here instead of going from state to state. As I visited the place just one day after the inauguration I could spot only limited stalls and shops open but most of the shops are already allotted and will open very soon.   There are so many reasons to Visit Shilp Gram.
It is a Shopper Paradise – from home decor, to clothing and jewellery, one can find anything and everything at one place. This place is soon going to attract people from city and visitors from outside Lucknow too. Surely our wait for yearly Lucknow Mohotsava has ended with this being available to us all year round. If you love to shop and explore do not miss this place. It also makes an excellent joint for buying gifts for friends and family.
Another reason that could make it popular among the citizens is the chosen site of the Shilp Gram, which is away from city’s hustel-bustle which allows you to enjoy and breathe in fresh air, free of dust and pollution which dominates inside the city and the crowded markets. There are enough parking spaces which make it even better. Apart from saving time finding a parking spot it is also provides a relaxed visit as there is not much of a chaos in this part of the city.  Morever there is alot of open space for your kid to move here and there inside the complex too.
Modern day Lucknow contains alot of beautiful buildings but we have to admit that Shilp Gram complex is very unique and impressive in its own way.  The infrastructure is very appealing, giving Indianised look with modern techniques. The complex is divided into various sections to make it feasible. There is a separate food court, an amphitheatre for performances in future, two very well set up Children’s playing area and clean washrooms. The stalls and directions are very well marked too. There are air-conditioned and non-AC shops in Awadh Shilp Gram, numbering 209 along with provision of separate men and women dormitories for lodging of visiting artisans.

The Shilp Gram serves right for people of all age and section of society. There is something for everybody. From food stalls to shopping stalls one can come and enjoy here with family and friends. People who are looking to take a break from the giant malls and polluted markets of Lucknow, you may get that in Shilp Gram.

Apart from from art and craft, Shilp Mela has a huge makeshift food court where you can find a lot of variety in food. There will be stalls from different states and various cuisines. Who would not want to indulge in some mouth watering, delicious food after much shopping?

Another USP of Shilp Gram is its Children Play Area. Congratulations all you ladies, you can let loose and shop without the worry of eyeing on your kids because there is a lot for kids to enjoy in the place too. The open spaces and, play spaces for kids are a very good idea and have been brought up in Lucknow for the first time.

The place is not ticketed for now, not sure about the coming days though. But till then one can go in, for free.
India’s amazing and varied handicrafts will be beautifully displayed here under one roof. This will not only increase people’s awareness on our dying art and tradition but also help the indigenous artisans to come up. Preservation of these arts is must and this is the foremost way to it. We will be lucky to see many Indian artists who are superb at what they do but have not got the right stage to showcase what they got. Luckily with such platforms they are coming up.  E.g. embroidery, paintings, pottery and textiles. There will be a variety of affordable souvenir shopping in a pleasant, open-air, un-crowded place, promoting the handicraft industry along with opening up of new avenues of jobs for youth.
The Shilp gram is being developed as a Cultural Hub. There are plans to organise appropriate ambience for the festivals. This will be a single point where foreign and domestic tourists will be brought and there will be a show case of culture and tradition in form of art and craft. Music, Dance, Sports, and theatre is also taken into consideration.

A good initiative from the state government to promote the handicrafts of the country, this would provide a unique shopping experience to the visitors if the promises are truly kept. If developed properly, it can surely turn out to be one of the major attractions of the city.

26 September, 2016

Now Reading

Here's a wish in my heart, to take a journey back in the days of Nawabs, when Lucknow was Oudh. The time of Dastan Goi, the time when social etiquettes became second nature, the Lucknow which Sharar talks about in this book. Wish I could use much humorous and satirical phrase 'Pahle-aap', after you, seriously and all other elaborate mannerism which are no longer prevalent in our city. The process of evolution has transformed the physical, social, and cultural landscape of Luc...know beyond recognition. The parks in Aminabad have been converted into shopping centres. Qaiserbagh, with its desolate gardens, neglected and near derelict architecture looks more like a ghost town, rather than the former fairyland enclosure.
However this book is slowly taking me to the Awadh as it was... Ah these 700 pages are a tressure! #dontwakemeup #myprecious #Lucknow #Awadh #nawab



16 August, 2016

Thought on this Independence Day

I often find myself spotting smiles more than the required details whenever I visit a Monument, such is the story of this picture. Found these young boys at Humayun's Tomb complex and we instantly clicked. It is always an interesting fact for me to notice different kind of people who visit any monument. Each is a storyteller, each carrying story of their lives and their past. Even though we are very much used to witnessing it, let us appreciate the beauty of the diversity around us. 

On this Note Happy Independence Day to all, i am back home and its a Rainy-Day here in Lucknow but my mother informed me that kids in her school seem no less enthusiastic. they surely know how to enjoy the Independence. 


08 August, 2016

Those Hot-Wheels of Gondal

Classic car lovers are often spotted in Gondal City State, in Saurashtra Gujrat. World famous for its Collection, Gondal is ruled by a family of Car enthusiasts whose royal passion resulted in a fine collection of automobiles, which are a part of a Museum in the Palace premises now. You reach Gondal by Driving south of Rajkot, which still looks like a place of yesteryears. I was told, such was the Royal passion, that Gondal had the best planned and well designed road system in pre-Independent Gujrat (imagine!?) The Royal Garage which has an extensive collection of vintage Automobiles and Classic Cars is in the Orchard palace. This Orchard Palace which is also known as 'The Huzoor Palace' is surrounded by huge gardens and fruit orchards. Also the current residence of the Royal family, even though a wing of this Palace has been converted into a seven-room Heritage Hotel decorated with 1930-40s art deco-furniture, antiques and handicrafts.








It is more than a treasure trove of Vintage automotives, which gives an aural-visual and educative experience that every vehicle enthusiast and historian would want to have. The collection replicates the bygone era, complete with the classic favourites. From Bentleys, Aston Martins and Rolls-Royces to the Chevrolet Camaro, the collection showcases a diverse collection of Glistening steel Beauties that could make even the most hard-nosed cynic quiver with excitement. I remember my brother going crazy over these Hot-wheels(as I am call them) like old Daimlers, Cadillac and Studebakers. The guide informed us that the Gondal family still takes interest in new models of cars and car racing.






The ideas of this collection also appear to raise awareness about the old-style vehicles. The collection also includes a pre-1910 New Engine that belonged to Maharaja Bhagwat Sinhji which is a real beauty with its superbly crafted gas-operated lamp, curved glass windscreen and woodwork interiors of the coach.
and just by the way, famous movies like Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam, R.. Rajkumar and recent Prem Ratan Dhan Payo was shot in Gondal palaces ;)






All you Vintage Car lover and History enthusiast  like me, go check out Gondal.  Also, there is more to Gondal than just the Vintage car Museum so do not give this small town of Royality a miss.